Eucalyptus trees are a thing of beauty. To keep the color coming, shorten all stems to within three inches of the ground or to the pre-established bolls that form after years of coppicing (or pollarding). For the freshest foliage on established smokebushes (Cotinus coggygria and 'Grace') cut the stems back hard in early spring to two to three buds from the base.

Most of today's home gardeners--unless interested in making wattle fences or shovel handles--use coppicing aesthetically to refresh and restrain shrubby plants. I whave just got home and it's a bit dark to take a photo but will do tomorrow.Yes I think the guy who lived here before knew what he was doing, apparently the bought the trees when they were small when they moved in 16 years ago. Think of pollarding as coppicing with a trunk. While it is possible to initiate pollarding on older trees, the process is tricky and requires the services of a certified arborist. Electricity authorities cut back lots of different Eucalyptus species, and seem to be mostly successful, although they mostly raise the ire of local residents.

A butterfly bush (Buddleia spp.) Maybe I'll be back in March for pollarding advice then!

Copyright Notice | Search | Home | Archives. Doreen, yes a woman would do as well (DP has a woman who works for him as a freelance climber), I think 'men' is just a turn of phrase...... but yes, clearly I should have said a male/female tree surgeon could do that for you. Jane.

I'm away at the moment but will post a pic tomorrow.I thought that about removal too - that it may cause problems.

Coppicing is the act of cutting certain woody plants nearly to the ground. The main thing is that if the pollarding works I would probably have to inform any subsequent owners of this property that the tree needs to continue to be maintained in this way or removed, as my feeling is that it could be unsafe if just "let go" after this treatment... Hi all,I am no expert in this subject, but I just wanted to say that we coppiced a eucalyptus (sorry, I don't know what type it is) ten years ago.

The downside is that flowers will be forfeited; also, once begun, pollarding must continue each year for the health of the tree. Tell me I'm right.

Consequently it had much more leaf on the crown than would have been naturally. February to March, whilst the tree is still in its dormant phase so that it does not bleed sap and attract disease-carrying insects. This is page 1 of 1 (This thread has 24 messages.). Top at that point. All shrubby ninebarks, including Physocarpus 'Diablo', benefit from an annual semi-coppicing in which up to half of the old stems are removed each year. It originated thousands of years ago in Europe as a form of woodland management. Plus the sap is rising now and the tree will bleed if you get it done soon.

Thanks. cheers, Larry fiddick, Apr 5, 2008 #1. One of their survival adaptations is that they have a great deal of meristematic tissue lying dormant in their cambial layer, deep under the bark. Pruning to ground level is coppicing according to my Pruning and Training text.

Begin by allowing a young tree to grow to the preferred size, complete with scaffold branches.

(You can also stool or coppice eucalypti, which means cutting the plants back to ground level each year, though pollarding is the preferred method. For most suburban gardens, a trunk tall enough to walk under is a good compromise. To compensate for the loss of flowers on coppiced plants, use them as a support for a clematis that can be pruned at the same time. I think it cost around £500. Empress trees (Paulownia tomentosa), catalpa, and many of the fastest-growing eucalyptus can also be coppiced, but are more refined when trained as a pollard (pronounced like "pollen"). Are they too close to house/too big?2.

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